Rectified Tile

A rectified tile is a perfectly-edged tile. In other words it has all edges finished to exacting dimensions. It is popular with the larger tile sizes and is often used smaller tile to build patterns. The grout lines are often explained as “credit card-thin” because of the exact edges.

Rectified tile looks great but requires a more skilled hand than for laying down regular tile. Large tile is hard to lay anyways but with tiny grout lines the positioning is difficult especially on the walls where the weight of the tile means it has to be supported at exactly the right spot until the mastic takes effect.

To show the differences between how ceramic tile and rectified tile are made, ceramic is made made larger because in the kiln it will shrink to size. Rectified can be made two ways. The first is that it begins as a large sheet that is cut to the exact size after it comes out of the kiln. The second is that it begins as a standard ceramic tile that is machined to the exact size after drying. So if a standard ceramic tile has a variation of 1.25% of its size, a rectified tile will only have between .025% and .05%.

Installation has its own set of problems that have to do with warping on large tiles. If the substrate is immovable, like concrete, this can pose a big problem because the edges will stick up. Granite and marble tile are classed as rectified because they too are machined to an exacting size. If these are not put down right then the sharp edges can have an effect on walking in the home whereas regular tile has honed edges and the inexact manner will compensate for this.

As installers become more familiar with rectified tile new techniques will emerge to make large tile easier to lay down. Smaller tiles, like 12″ x 12″ , are still small enough to move with the substrate and are not as subject to warping during the manufacture as the large variety.

Large Tile Installation

It used to be that 8″ x 8″ ceramic or porcelain tile was classed as “large.” Most bathroom tile at the time was 4″ squares and mosaic-on-web so the 8″ square was considered a big tile. In the late 1970’s 12″ x 12″ tile came into vogue and this was thought of as being huge. But today those sizes are just a drop in the bucket.

In order to sell this tile many of the tile stores would advertise the product as “quick to install.” In their minds, more space meant that the floor filled up faster with less tile. However, in many cases the opposite was true: larger tile took more time to set up and get level than the smaller ones. Today, it is not unusual to see 18″ x 18″ squares and even 24″ x 24″. But what does this mean for the installer?

What larger tile means is that the subfloor tolerances cannot be too great or else there is a risk of breakage. In other words if the large tiles are not set down on a flat surface with the right amount of mastic then the weight of the tile, traffic and lack of support may collaborate to break the tile. For example, if the floor level is out by 1/4″ over 10 feet an 8″ x 8″ tile will not have a problem with this. However, as we go bigger we see the differences. A 12″ x 12″ tile has a small enough surface area to compensate for the uneven surface but pressure on the 18″ square might cause it to break in time. And few people will carry spare tiles of that size.

The key to the successful placement of large tile is a level floor. I fact it must be level from one side to the other. To gauge this stretch a chalk line from one side of the room to the other and gently snap it so that no heavy chalk will hit the low areas.  Do this every foot across the room and then do it again putting perpendicular lines down. You might have a partial checkerboard effect but where the chalk is heaviest is where the floor is the highest.

If there are a just a few high spots you may be able to sand them or plane them out depending on the material. (With oriented strand board you will have to use a leveling compound on the low spots) Once you get the floor leveled put down a thin subfloor like 1/4″ plywood. This will fortify your changes and give a smooth surface on which to install your tile.

If there is a basement the low spots may be raised by shimming between the joists and floor in the low places. The key is too get the floor as even as possible.

Wood Tile

Wood floors use planks which are the long cut pieces of a log. Depending on the style the logs are quartered and then the planks are cut from one of the two straight edges. More expensive wood is in a “radial” cut like cutting pieces from a large pie only in strips instead of triangles.

One of the most unique flooring ideas is wood tile. These can be be from many species of wood from soft pine to exotic zebrawood from Africa. The one thing they all have in common is that they are cut into tiles instead of planks. In most cases these tiles are “end cuts,” sawn off the end of the log instead of ripped like the usually flooring is cut. This shows up the rings of the wood and gives a “radial” dimension to the floor. Some are squared off pieces of regular hardwood. Cork is a flooring product that works well as a tile product.

What makes the end cuts unique is that they offer a unique perspective of wood on a floor. The “tiles” are usually 3/4″ think and can be left natural or stained. In addition they can be made in almost any shape as a ceramic tile. In fact one of the most popular shapes is the 6-sided tile which gives a honeycomb-look to the floor.

Other wood includes planks reclaimed from old houses and barns. These old lengths have been aging for over a hundred years and, because deforestation wasn’t as bad back then, they are very clear.

One method of placing wood tiles is to put them down raw and then have them smoothed with a sander. The sawdust is then vacuumed up and saved. The floor is then stained and left to dry. Meanwhile the sawdust is reintroduced to the floor and brushedinto the cracks. When the floor is coated with a urethane finish the sawdust becomes a natural grout which sets off the stained wood.

Painting Ceramic Tile

When home owners want to change the look of a room there is only so much that they can do by painting the walls and ceiling. When it comes to the floor vinyl can be recovered with more vinyl and ceramic tile can also be covered with flooring. However, many people do not have the money to spend on a flooring job.

A great way to spruce up tile to to paint it. Whether it is floor or wall tile it can be painted and this paint will last if the right procedures are taken. However, it is not recommended to paint tile in showers or any other place where it will be getting wet often.

1.  Clean and Preparation: Every surface to be painted has to ve cleaned or prepared in some way to clear the grease and dirt away. The best cleaning methods are trisodium phosphate (TSP) and oxygen bleach. Both are powders that are mixed with water. They will nor leave residues like other cleaners. Sart with with one piece of floor at a timed and go to the farthest pat of the room and work backwards. Apply the mixture on the floor with a mop and let it sit. Use a scrub brush on a broom handle and work hard on the surfaces especially the grout. Now use an electric sander with a fine grit to roughen up the surface so the paint will hold.

2.  Primer: Always use an alkyd primer before painting on a hard surface like tile. Although this is oil base you can put a water-based paint on it and it will hold.

3.  Paint: There are two types of paints: oil and water. Oil-based paints, like the primer, give off VOC’s which are volatile organic compounds, and are not recommended for those with allergies. The gas will go but it will take a few weeks. Melamine paints are the toughest. Water-based urethanes are also good and won’t yellow after time.

4.  Painting: For tile use a fine bristle brush for both the grout and tile or brush the grout and use a roller on the tile. For contrast the grout may be painted another color. Or the tile and grout can be painted a neutral color and the tile stamped with a new design. As these patterns will be exposed they should be a glaze-based product.

Let the paint cure for a couple of days without stepping on it.

Floor Mosaics

One of the most striking additions to any floor is the introduction of a specialty floor marker like a mosaic tile design or a a hardwood pattern. These can range from sweeping patterns, like those of stained-glass windows, to simple designs made from just a few tiles.

The ancient empires were rife with mosaics, which doubled as pictures for these civilizations. The mosaics unearthed in Pompeii gave archeologists and anthropologists an intimate look at what life was like before the lavas of Mount Vesuvius covered it up for almost two millennia.

Today, mosaics are usually pre-made and then installed much like normal tile. The pattern consists of pieces of tile glued to a fiberglass screen. This unit is then placed in a prominent position on the sub-floor, usually before the main tile is installed. The tile or hardwood flooring is installed around the design.

Once the flooring is installed then the mosaic can be grouted. If the entire floor is going to be tiled then this can be done at the same time. In some cases the design will have its own grout color so this should be put in first and let to dry before the rest of the floor is grouted.

For the artist in everyone there is always the opportunity of making your own mosaic. This is accomplished by purchasing the small pieces of tile and doing the exact design you want. The first step is too draw out the pattern on paper so you know what tiles to get. Some colors can be purchased in the exact shapes while others will have to be made with a tile saw.

To make the mosaic place a square of fiberglass screen on a table and assemble your design with the pieces you have collected. Make the screen sticky with a canned glue spray so that the pieces won’t slide. After the pieces are on the screen take strips of masking tape and cover the whole pattern, going over the pattern in one direction and slightly overlapping each course of tape.

Now that the pattern is fixed to the screen gently flip it over and lay it down so that none of the pieces are disturbed. Take wall panel glue and dab the screen then, with a putty knife, smooth the glue over the screen. Once this dries flip the pattern over again ansd take of the tape. The pattern is now ready to install on the subfloor with tiling thinset.

Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT)

Laminate floor planks have taken the flooring industry by storm as they offer an attractive, durable and inexpensive way to get a beautiful floor. The most hard hit by this surge in the flooring industry were carpet and vinyl flooring because the cost was comparable or lower than these products and the look was that of a more expensive floor.

Vinyl flooring products have begun to regain some breathing room in the industry as people re-discover the new, life-like tile and stone patterns with a cushioned backing. Easy on the feet and impervious to water vinyl is still a great flooring for kitchens and bathrooms.

Another vinyl product that is becoming popular is luxury vinyl tiles, or LVT. This is not to be confused with the old self-adhesive vinyl tiles that used to discolor and crack over the years. LVT are made up of a vinyl backing, printed mid-layer and a thick, transparent top layer pressed together like laminate flooring, with high heat and pressure. They are made to look like hardwood, ceramic tile, marble and bamboo.The manufacturers state that this flooring withstand most household chemicals and heavy traffic. In addition, LVT requires no waxing.

The big news LVT’s bring is that they are also avaiable in plank form. This allows them to compete with laminate and hardwood, especially in areas where the moisture content is high. In addition LVT planks are available in a a click together format allowing them to be installed as a floating floor.

Many forms of LVT’s are self-adhesive but others require a vinyl flooring adhesive. The tiles are set in place and then rolled with a regular, kitchen rolling pin.

Tile Grout

When tile is installed an adhesive is spread to hold the squares to the subfloor. There are equal spaces between the tile and a mixture is put in these spaces to reinforce the tile positioning. Applying grout in the voids not only supports the tile but adds an attractive border.

Grout is made from Portland cement and other ingredients such as powdered latex and acrylic modifiers for tensile strength. There is usually a “fine mix” for showers and kitchen backsplashs which means that it is a powdery consistency. For flooring and large spaces between the tiles the resulting paste is called a “sand mix” because sand is used as the main ingredient. Grout is available is a wide variety of colors and can set off the tile design like a frame does for a picture.

The key to mixing grout is to make sure it is nor to watery or else it will not cure properly and might crack and fall out. Many tile installers will tell you that the mix should be the consistency of pancake batter. So if the grout mix comes out like a milkshake then you have to add more grout powder. The other rule-of-thumb is never mix more grout that you can put down in 30 minutes. And never add more water once the grout has sat for a while.

Grout is applied to the tile in diagonal strokes with a “float,” a trowel with a foam rubber pad. Do this in two direction to makes sure that the mixture goes in evenly. There will be a skiff of grout on top of the tile and this should be wipe clean with a wet sponge. However, wring the sponge to get all excess water out or the grout may get waterlogged.

After the grout has set wipe the floor again with a damp mop. You may have to do this several times to get all the dust off the tile. Like all masonry products grout should be left to dry slowly because quick drying promotes compression cracks.

For kitchens and bathrooms a grout sealer prevents staining which may discolor light-colored tile. It also prevents bacteria from getting into the porous surfaces.

Soft Interlocking Floor Tiles

There are instances in flooring when the traditional floors are not appropriate. This includes hardwood, laminate, tile, carpet and vinyl. Why? because they are all to hard, even a cushioned, vinyl floor. The cases where this may occur would be daycare flooring, aerobics flooring, patios and any place where people will be using the area for recreational purposes.

One of the most functional flooring options to come down the pike in a long while is interlocking, foam floors. These usually come in 2′ X 2′ squares which have tabs allowing them to be pressed together into a large surface, sort of like an ordered jigsaw puzzle. The result is a large area of flooring which absorbs the energy associated with the pounding of exercising and playing saving peoples’ joints and feet from injury.

Carpet Tile: The product comes in many forms and finishing. For example, in exercise areas a foam-backed caret tile is popular. This gives the look and warmth of a broad expanse of carpet which can be taken up and cleaned in individual squares. In addition, if one are is getting too much use this can be rotated out and exchanged with another area which is out of the traffic load.

Vinyl Finish: Closed-cell EVA foam is the most popular material for the athletic mats because it is easy to vacuum, scrub clean and will not absorb water. In addition, the subfloor can be easily cleaned by periodically taking up the 2′ X 2′ squares. This is great for preventing mold or mildew from forming under the tiles.

Other Finishes: Tiles can come in a smooth or matt finish and, as well, faux finishes like woodgrain and a host of colors and textures to create a checkerboard effect or dozens of other designs.

Cutting Tile

Tiling an area of the home puts a great, long-term flooring that is extremely durable and easy to clean. It also can set off the area by embellishing the decor like cabinets or appliances. But doing a tile floor takes a skilled hand because the materials that are being used are hard and brittle and can break when cutting is involved.

Professional tile installers have the right equipment for doing a floor: diamond wet saw, 4 1/2″ grinder with a diamond blade, mixing paddle for mastic and grout, etc. These tools not only make the job easier but will allow specialized cuts that would normally shatter tile if other types of cutters were used.

1. Ceramic Tile Cutter: This tool is a small metal table (usually aluminum) about 16″ X 6″ (they are bigger for larger tile) with a cutting arm above. The cutter slides along this arm the full length allowing tile to be scored by a tungsten cutting wheel. The tile is positioned on the table and the wheel is pulled to scor the surface of the tile. Then the tile can be snapped at the score mark. This works great for thinner, ceramic tile.

2. Diamond Saw: For porcelain tile and thick ceramic there is a diamond wet saw which resembles a small table saw with a small plastic tub below it. The tile is cut in the same way as a table saw cuts wood and the water cools the blade so it lasts longer. The water bath also keeps down the dust which can be a lot as the amount of tile increases.

3. Grinder: Many pros prefer an ordinary 4 1/2″ grinder with a diamond bladed for small cuts. These cuts can almost be made as the tile goes down without pulling them back for a measurement.

4. Nippers: These are a plier-like device with a pincer end for trimming off ragged edges or for carving out pieces too small for a grinder. Care must be taken with nippers as the pressure might break the tile.

5. Hole Saw: These are a masonry drill bit with a sleeve around in the same manner as a doorknob hole saw. They are for drilling ager holes in tile for pipes or conduit. the masonry bit makes the hole and acts like a cut so that the sleeve can drill the proper hole.

6. Tile Edge Stone: This tool is like sanding block only with a rough stone to smooth the tile edges after a cut is made.

7. Chipping Hammer: Resembling a geology hammer is has a shape, pointed end for chipping tile.

Tile Floor Designing

For information on tile design go to Tile and Stone